Chapter 10 · Stocks, Sauces & Condiments
Capuliato Siciliano (Sun-Dried Tomato Pesto)
A rustic, umami-rich condiment of minced sun-dried tomatoes, preserving the essence of summer in a dense, spreadable paste.
Yield: ~750 ml (3 cups) | Prep: 15 min | Cook: 30 min | Total: ~45 min
Headnote
Unlike a basil pesto which is an emulsion, Capuliato is a mince. By passing the ingredients through a meat grinder rather than a blade processor, we achieve a uniform, “pebbled” texture that retains a pleasant chew rather than becoming a puree. The resulting paste is a versatile weapon in the kitchen—use it to mount sauces, spread on crostini, or fold into pasta dough. Teaching Idea: Anaerobic Preservation. The longevity of this preserve relies on the exclusion of oxygen. By packing the tomatoes tightly, we force out air pockets where bacteria could thrive, and the final oil cap acts as a hydrophobic barrier, sealing the product from the oxidizing atmosphere.
Ingredients
The Aromatics
- 900 g (2 lbs) Sun-Dried Tomatoes (pliable/soft)
- 10 g (2 cloves) Garlic, peeled
- 5 g (2 whole) Fresh red chilies or dried peperoncino
- 10 g (10 leaves) Fresh Basil
- 4 g (2 tsp) Dried Oregano
The Seal
- ~250 ml (1 cup) Extra Virgin Olive Oil (quantity will vary based on jar shape)
Mise en Place (Action Checklist)
- Sanitize the vessel: Wash a 1-liter wide-mouth jar with hot soapy water and dry completely.
- Hydrate (Conditional): If tomatoes are “bone dry” (brittle/hard), blanch for 2 minutes and dry thoroughly. If they are oil-packed or pliable, use as is.
- Chill the grinder: Place the metal parts of the meat grinder in the freezer for 15 minutes to prevent friction heat from degrading the essential oils.
- Peel and prep: Peel garlic; destem the chili peppers.
Method
Phase 1: The Grind.
Set up a meat grinder with a coarse die. Place a large mixing bowl underneath. Feed the sun-dried tomatoes into the hopper in batches. Between every few handfuls, add a cluster of garlic, red chilies, and fresh basil leaves so the aromatics grind evenly throughout.
Why: This ensures the aromatics are evenly distributed throughout the red paste and crushed by the auger, releasing their oils directly into the tomato flesh.
Once all ingredients are processed, sprinkle the dried oregano over the pile and mix thoroughly by hand (gloved) to ensure homogeneity.
Phase 2: The Pack (Compaction).
Transfer the mixture into the sanitized jar in small batches (about 2 inches/5 cm at a time).
Action: After each addition, use a pestle, a muddler, or the back of a spoon to press the mixture down with significant force.
Sensory Cue: You are looking for a solid, dense red brick with zero visible air gaps against the glass. The mixture should feel tight.
Layering (Optional): If desired, place a fresh basil leaf against the glass between layers for visual appeal.
Phase 3: The Seal & Equilibration.
Leave about 1 inch (2.5 cm) of headspace at the top of the jar. Pour Extra Virgin Olive Oil over the surface until the tomatoes are completely submerged.
Let the jar sit open on the counter for 15 minutes.
Why: Oil will slowly seep into microscopic crevices. You will likely see bubbles rise to the surface.
Top Up: Add more oil if the level drops, ensuring the solids remain covered by at least 1 cm of oil. Seal the jar tightly.
Chef’s Notes
- Storage & Safety: Because this mixture contains raw garlic and oil (a low-acid, anaerobic environment), there is a theoretical risk of botulism if stored at room temperature. Store exclusively in the refrigerator. It will keep for 3–4 months.
- Maintenance: Every time you scoop some Capuliato out, you must flatten the remaining surface and top it up with a thin film of fresh olive oil. If the tomatoes are exposed to air, they will mold.
- Texture Variable: If you do not have a meat grinder, you may use a food processor. Pulse in short bursts—do not run continuously—or you will create a smooth puree rather than the traditional rustic mince.
Glossary
- Capuliato: Sicilian term meaning “minced” or “ground,” referring specifically to this style of tomato condiment.
- Headspace: The empty space left between the top of the food product and the lid of the jar to allow for expansion or oil coverage.
- Auger: The spiral drill bit inside a meat grinder that pushes food toward the cutting blade.