Chapter 8 · The Field
Crispy Potato & Onion Pavé Triangles
A structural masterpiece featuring a glassy, shatter-crisp exterior and a rich, onion-perfumed interior.
Yield: 18–24 triangles | Prep: 45 min | Inactive: 12 hr | Cook: 35 min | Total: ~13 hr
Headnote
This recipe elevates the humble potato into a geometric exercise in texture. By combining washed grated shreds with a dehydrated potato-and-onion pulp, we create a pavé that holds sharp architectural edges during the final fry.
Teaching Idea: Mechanical Dehydration. By aggressively wringing moisture from the potatoes and onions using a cloth, we remove the water that would otherwise turn to steam and compromise the structural integrity of the starch “glue.”
Ingredients
The Potato Components
- 600 g (approx. 21 oz) Agria potatoes, grated
- 360 g (approx. 12.5 oz) Agria potatoes, diced into 2 cm chunks
The Aromatics & Bind
- 180 g (1 large) yellow onion, peeled and roughly chopped
- 15 g (2 tbsp) tapioca starch
- 7 g (2 tsp) onion powder
- 5 g (1 tsp) Diamond Crystal kosher salt
The Medium
- 400 g (1 ¾ cups) clarified butter
- Neutral oil, for deep frying
Mise en Place (Action Checklist)
- Grate the Potatoes: Process the Agria potatoes designated for the shredded component through a box grater.
- Dice the Potatoes: Cut the remaining Agria potatoes into 2 cm chunks.
- Chop the Onions: Roughly chop the onions in preparation for blending.
- Prepare a Cold Water Bath: Fill a large bowl with cold water for washing the shreds.
- Line the Tray: Line a small, high-sided tray or loaf tin with non-stick baking paper.
- Set Out Cloth: Prepare a clean, lint-free kitchen towel or cheesecloth for wringing.
Method
Phase 1: Extraction & Starch Management
Wash the Shreds: Place the grated potato into a large bowl. Wash 4 times, changing the water each time, until the water remains clear. Drain well. Why: This removes excess surface starch that would cause the shreds to clump prematurely.
Create the Pulp: Place the diced potato into a blender with just enough water to allow the blades to catch. Process until smooth.
Dehydrate the Pulp: Pour the blended potatoes into a fine sieve (chinois) and press firmly to remove as much liquid as possible. Discard the liquid and reserve the concentrated pulp.
Process the Onions: Blend the chopped onions into a smooth pulp. Strain through a chinois, then wrap in a clean cloth and aggressively wring to remove all possible moisture. Reserve the dry onion pulp.
Final Shred Prep: Place the washed grated potato into a clean cloth and wring aggressively to remove every trace of moisture.
Phase 2: The Confit Cook
Hydrate the Starch: In a wide pan over medium-low heat, add the clarified butter. Once warm, add the grated and blended potato pulp.
Slow Cook: Cover with a lid and cook for 5 minutes. Lift the lid and lightly mix with a spatula; do not mash the shreds. Continue to cook, uncovered, for 15–20 minutes until the potato is tender but retains its shape. Sensory Cue: The butter should barely bubble; the potato should look translucent and “saturated” but not browned.
Drain: Transfer the mixture to a perforated tray or sieve. Let it cool and drain excess fat for 30 minutes.
Phase 3: The Bind & Set
Season: In a large bowl, combine the cooked potato mixture, tapioca starch, onion powder, Diamond Crystal kosher salt, and the reserved onion pulp. Mix thoroughly by hand until a cohesive “dough” forms.
Compress: Press the mixture firmly and evenly into the prepared tray. Cover with another sheet of baking paper. Place a flat tray on top and add weights (e.g., heavy cans).
Cold Set: Refrigerate for at least 12 hours (overnight) to allow the starch to hydrate and the fat to solidify.
Phase 4: Fabrication & Fry
Shape: Invert the tray onto a cutting board and remove the paper. Cut the chilled block into clean, sharp triangles using a hot, sharp knife.
Deep Fry: Heat neutral oil to 340°F/170°C. Fry the triangles in batches for 3–4 minutes until deep golden brown and exceptionally crispy. Sensory Cue: Listen for the sizzle to subside — this indicates the last of the surface moisture has evaporated.
Finish: Drain on a wire rack and season immediately with additional Diamond Crystal kosher salt if desired.
Chef’s Notes
- The “Aggressive” Wring: The success of the “glassy” crust depends entirely on how much water you remove in Phase 1. If the dough feels “mushy” or wet before going into the tray, it will likely explode or become greasy during the fry.
- Potato Selection: High-starch, low-moisture varieties like Agria or Russet are non-negotiable. Waxy potatoes will not provide the necessary starch for the internal bind.
- Knife Work: To get perfectly clean edges, dip your knife in hot water and wipe it dry between every cut.
Glossary
- Agria: A variety of potato characterized by its high starch content and yellow flesh, ideal for frying and chips.
- Chinois: A conical fine-mesh sieve used for straining liquids and purees to a very smooth consistency.
- Clarified Butter: Butterfat that has been separated from the milk solids and water, allowing for higher-temperature cooking without burning.
- Mechanical Dehydration: The physical process of removing water from a substance using pressure or centrifugal force rather than heat.
- Pavé: From the French for “paved”; in culinary use, a technique of pressing a mixture into a mold, chilling until firm, then cutting into clean geometric shapes.
- Tapioca Starch: A gluten-free starch extracted from the cassava root, used here to provide a “snap” and clear-set bind.